by Anna Hann
posted on June 19, 2024
The glamourous-sounding Atlantic Highway is part of the (less glam-sounding) A39 in north Devon and Cornwall. It was downgraded from its status as a trunk road in 2002 (although arguably, that could be considered an upgrade), and now, the Atlantic Highway marks out a particularly lovely 70-mile road running from Barnstaple in North Devon to Fraddon in the Newquay area of North Cornwall.
Despite its name (not to be confused with the Atlantic Road – that one’s in Norway), the Atlantic Highway is not technically a coast road, although it tracks along Cornwall’s north coast and links some of the west country’s most desirable locations. It’s also a route that provides access to some of the prettiest fishing villages and charming towns in the South West.
Many road trips in the west country involve zipping down the A30, the main road that forms the backbone of Cornwall, but following the Atlantic Highway takes you on a more northerly route through the county where you’re only ever a few miles from the North Coast of Cornwall. To fully enjoy this journey, book a car on Turo and explore the stunning landscapes and picturesque stops along the way.
Driven end-to-end without stopping would only take a couple of hours at the most. But that isn’t the point. A perfect trip on the Atlantic Highway is all about the places you’ll call at along the way, savouring the gorgeous landscapes and panoramic views with more than a brief pitstop here and there. There are different ways to tackle the route, and plenty of ways to tailor it to make it your own, but when you’re first thinking about a Cornish road trip, here are some destinations along the way that deserve some attention in this beautiful corner of England.
The route
Appledore
Just a couple miles north of the Atlantic Highway is the North Devon seaside town of Appledore, sitting at the point where the Taw and Torridge rivers meet. From Appledore, you can hop on a ferry to neighbouring Instow or walk part of the South West Coast Path in North Devon that links the coastal communities from Appledore, Instow, Bideford, and Westward Ho! (which really does have an exclamation mark in its name), or try the three-mile Torridge Tarka Trail from Instow, a training site for the D-Day Landings.
Where to eat
For dinner with a sea view, visit the 18th-century pub, The Royal George, right on the waterfront in Appledore overlooking the Taw and Torridge estuary.
Where to stay
Stay at 1 Quayside, a typical Devonshire seaside cottage in a string of prettily-coloured houses in Appledore. Close to the waterfront, it’s in the centre of the village’s maze of narrow streets.
Clovelly
Leaving Appledore behind, rejoin the Atlantic Highway, driving around ten miles before exiting the route again to explore Clovelly. This car-free fishing village is set on steep cobbled streets, so you’ll need to park and then buy a ticket to get into this village (yes, seriously – it’s a private estate), but its charms will win you over. Brace yourself for a steep hill climb, then reward yourself with an ice cream at the top.
Where to eat
Stop at the Red Lion for a classic Devonshire cream tea. Remember, in Devon it’s cream first, then jam. Just a few miles away in North Cornwall, a traditional Cornish cream tea is always jam first, then cream.
Where to stay
You can stay in Clovelly village itself, either at the Red Lion or The New Inn hotel which has 11 individually finished rooms, each a little different from the next.
Bude
After Clovelly, the Atlantic Highway heads south and you’ll cross the border into Cornwall. You could stop at Morwenstow on the way, and learn more about the area’s history with a stop at the driftwood-built Hawker’s Hut on the cliff edge near a thousand-year-old church.
When you reach the turnoff for Bude, a town known for its outdoorsy, beachy lifestyle, you’ll be within touching distance of some of Cornwall’s best beaches, including Widemouth Bay and Summerleaze. The coastline is battered by Atlantic breakers, forming a wild scene that is part of what makes Cornwall so beautiful.
If you’d rather swim somewhere calmer, head to Bude Sea Pool. It was built in the 1930s behind Summerleaze Beach, keeping dippers safe from ocean tides and waves – plus it’s a little warmer than the sea in the summertime.
Where to eat
If you’ve spent the day on Summerleaze Beach, keep things simple and get a table at Life’s a Beach. You’ll have stunning views of the ocean as you dine on beer-battered fish and chips.
Where to stay
Book a room at The Beach at Bude for some chic coastal feels. There are modern guest rooms with sea views and there’s a restaurant overlooking the ocean, too.
Tintagel
Turn off the Atlantic Highway at Collamoor Head and take the B3263 towards Tintagel. Drive a few miles through the harbour town of Boscastle, then make a pitstop at St Nectan’s Glen, where there’s a 60-foot waterfall tucked away in a temperate Atlantic rainforest with trees adorned with prayer flags.
The route to Tintagel also takes you past the mysterious Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, a small independent museum displaying over 3,000 objects if you’re interested in all things magical. You’ll also pass St. Juliot, a church famous for being partly restored by writer Thomas Hardy and providing the inspiration for his novel, A Pair of Blue Eyes.
Tintagel Castle is an unmissable sight. Steeped in the legends of King Arthur, this fairytale-like castle perched on an island is reached by an impressive footbridge. After learning more about Cornish history, head down to the beach below the castle. At low tide, you can peek inside Merlin’s Cave and scramble over the rocks.
Where to eat
Cornish pasties aren’t hard to come by wherever you are in Cornwall. The history of this handheld snack dates back to the Cornish tin miners, when they took their beef and vegetable pastries with them down into the mines, holding on to the thick crimped crusts with their hands. Fancy it? Try Pengenna Pasties on Atlantic Road in Tintagel.
Where to stay
Continue the castle theme and stay at Camelot Castle hotel. It’s about as close as you can stay at Tintagel Castle and you’ll get to experience what it’s like to sleep in a castle, too.
Port Isaac
When you rejoin the Atlantic Highway after Tintagel, you’ll have Bodmin Moor to the south where you could divert for a change of scenery – wild and windswept and with even more King Arthur legend to delve into.
Otherwise, two miles north off the Atlantic Highway is the gorgeous fishing village of Port Isaac with a tidal harbour. The popularity of this tiny village burgeoned after being featured in TV’s Doc Martin, and you can have a pint in the Golden Lion Pub in the centre of the village (the real name of the Crab & Lobster featured in the drama) with visitors from around the world who’ve come to see this little slice of Cornwall for themselves.
Where to eat
Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen is the most famous restaurant in these parts, set in a 15th-century fisherman’s harbour cottage. If you fancy something a bit more low key, try St Kew Inn for a fantastic line-up of local ales or from Port Isaac, you can walk around Lobber Point to Port Quin or head in the other direction for a hyper-local menu at Port Gaverne, which features plenty of local seafood and produce on the menu.
Where to stay
There is plenty of holiday accommodation in these parts, but if you’re a fan of the show, you might not want to pass up the chance to stay in Doc Martin’s house. It’s real name, Fern Cottage, is a two-bedroom self-catering cottage in Port Isaac that’s available to book.
Padstow
From Port Isaac, rejoin the Atlantic Highway driving through Wadebridge and then heading back to the coast to visit Padstow – one of the most famous places in Cornwall, thanks to a certain Rick Stein, celebrity chef (plus plenty of others who have followed in his wake). Padstow really is the heart of Cornwall’s foodie region where it’s easy to come by excellent restaurants that draw on Cornwall’s local and fresh produce. It’s a working harbour and you’ll get lovely sea views of bobbing fishing boats.
Where to eat
The most famous place to eat in Padstow, apart from several well-regarded Rick Stein restaurants, is Paul Ainsworth at Number 6. But there are plenty of other pubs and restaurants, too.
Where to stay
You’re spoilt for choice of excellent accommodation in this region. Across the River Camal, you could stay in Polzeath (St. Moritz Hotel comes highly recommended), otherwise stay in Padstow itself and check into Rick Stein’s Edmunds House.
Harlyn Bay
Your journey west on the Atlantic Highway nears to an end around Harlyn Bay Beach, one of the loveliest family beaches in Cornwall. It’s wide and sheltered, perfect for building sandcastles or scrambling over rocks. When the wind blows from a southwest direction, the waves here are unbeatable for surfers, with the horseshoe-shaped bay creating waves suitable for beginners through to challenging surf at the east end of the beach, with fast waves to negotiate.
Where to eat
Visit The Lobster Shed for al fresco dining in the summer. If you’re visiting in the winter, head inside to the cosy surroundings of The Restaurant where as many of the ingredients as possible are sourced within a 25-mile radius, including harbour-fresh seafood, Cornish wines and spirits, and saffron for the classic Cornish saffron cakes.
Where to stay
The Pig at Harlyn Bay is the perfect place to stay on an Atlantic Highway road trip. It has incredible sea views, great places to eat and drink, and a fantastic atmosphere. It’s set across a 15th century house (so the walls have seen plenty of history unfolding), but you have the choice to stay in the house or in one of the Garden Wagons that look out over the fields and have outdoor showers and private terraces.
Porthcothan
Often known as Poldark country (another famous TV show shot in Cornwall), there’s dramatic scenery in this region, with sandy coves and dramatic sea stacks at Bedruthan Steps. Scenes for the show were shot on the clifftop of the headlands known at Park Head. There’s a mile-long easy trail you can follow along the coast and farmland footpaths, avoiding any steep hill sections.
Where to eat
Go proper Cornish and order fish and chips to takeaway and eat them on the beach watching the waves crash. Otherwise, head to glorious Watergate Bay towards Newquay where you can dine with a sea view from one of the Watergate Bay Hotel’s restaurants.
Where to stay
Finish your Cornish road trip in style with a stay at The Scarlet, an eco-minded hotel overlooking the ocean at Mawgan Porth, not far from Newquay. There’s an outdoor spa set on the clifftop, with a cedar wood sauna and steam room. There’s also a natural swimming pool, naturally filtered by a living reed bed.
Planning your trip
The best time to visit the North Coast of Devon and Cornwall
When you’re planning a Atlantic Highway road trip, think about the best time to go. The spring and summer months are popular for obvious reasons – warmer weather is perfect for enjoying the beach, and the wild scenery looks particularly lovely under sunny skies.
Popular though they are, a spring or summer trip isn’t your only option – many visitors love Cornwall in the autumn and winter when it takes on a more mysterious guise, plus is much quieter if you want to explore some of the most popular spots with fewer crowds. Go prepared with wellies and decent coat – Cornish winters can be wet and windy.
International visitors
If you’re visiting Devon and Cornwall from overseas, it’s important to remember driving rules in England and the UK. Check out Turo’s guide for international drivers in the UK for all the tips and local regulations you’ll need to make your Cornwall road trip a safe and successful journey.
Preparing for the journey
Consider flying into and out of Newquay Airport, picking up your car or van from your Turo host, then turning a linear journey of the Atlantic Highway into a loop.
If you’re driving from London or England, pick up your rental car on Turo and take the A303 then the A361 to North Devon, ready to join the Atlantic Highway from Barnstaple.
You’ll find plenty of places to refuel along the way if you’re renting a diesel, petrol, or hybrid car. If you’ve decided on an EV, check Zapmap for charging points along your route.
The best cars and vans for the Atlantic Highway
When you’re etting off on a Cornwall road trip, you’re going to want to drive the perfect car to explore this part of the world. If you’re bringing your family, you’ll want something comfortable and spacious with room for all your luggage (and a few buckets and spades for the beach – some Turo hosts even provide these extras), maybe even something with a bike rack if you’re planning to explore coast paths by bike. If you’re planning on making the most of the excellent surf conditions in North Devon or Cornwall, vans are a popular option for road trips.
Driving tips in North Cornwall
Although there aren’t particularly tricky roads like hairpin bends to negotiate, Cornwall is notorious for its narrow lanes. While the Atlantic Highway itself is a major road, plenty of the diversions you’ll make are B-roads, which can be single-track in places. You’ll need to be well aware of your fellow road users, including bikes, walkers, and riders and be prepared to pull over to let traffic through.
Notes on the South West Coast Path
Many visitors who choose to drive the Atlantic Highway want to access the SWCP. Between Marsland and Newquay, there are 66 miles of the overall 630-mile route, which have some of the most challenging hill sections of anywhere on the route. The section between Clovelly and Tintangel is known as the Coast of Legends (owing to its connections to King Arthur), and gives you a glimpse of some of the most treachorus sections of coastline that have posed challenges for seafarers over the centuries.
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